Colonel's Retreat

   That is the name of the hotel where I am staying, although it is more like a B & B.  However, it certainly is a retreat!   Quiet, calm & welcoming hospitality after the hectic city.  They say that Delhi traffic is  to be experienced.  I would say it is something to be lived through - hopefully!   Everyone uses their horn, "beep, beep" almost constantly.  Actually, they use their horn when they are close to another vehicle (including rickshaw, bicycle, motorcycle, horse & wasgon) or pedistrian.  When I say close, I mean within about 3 inches! Mind you, driving is done British style; driver on the right side of the car & direction of movement to the left - more or less.  India should stop painting lines for lanes on the streets.  In most areas there are 3 designated lanes and at least 5 abreast of vehicles.  I say in most cases, since during heavy traffic the center of the roadway either expands or contracts to accomodate the flow.  And flow it does!!!  My analogy would be water over rapids - just think moving objects in a stream around obstacles - exciting!   It actually has to be experienced - there is no other way to get a feel for it!!
   Today after my tour of the Red Fort on foot & the Old Delhi Market by rickshaw, I was more than happy to become engrosed in learning the art of northern Indian cooking.  My teacher was Ryoti. Her business is called Gourmet Desire.   She offers cooking demonstration/lessons, spice & herb buying trips and also market shopping excursions.  We prepared everything from the soup course through dessert!  All was extremely aromatic & flavorful although not spicy hot.  I also learned to make paneer, the traditional cheese!
   Last on my must do list for the day was shopping for a kurta.  This is a traditional garment worn by Indian women.  It is a 'blouse' that comes just above the knees with slits up each side to just about the hip.  Mine is sleeveless and cotton with some simple aplique and embroidery along the bodice.  Color is a light turquoise.  Yesterday on my city excursions, I was clearly dressed like a sore thumb wearing my knee length flared skirt, bare legs, sandals, and short sleeved blouse.  I expected to see women in sari's in the streets, markets and metro.  But, even the women who are not local had on long pants or in rare cases a skirt, and all items very drapey & flowing - that is to try to stay cool!  I am sure I will still look like a tourist, but at least won't get so many stares from people. 

Here I am in my kurta - very comfortable indeed!

Thank goodness I brought some lightweight, wide leg pants (thanks to my friend Pat C) and my thai silk pants (thanks to my friend Lori).  Along with my wide-leg white linen crop pants, this will be my wardrobe for the next week.  Hopefully, in Bali, I will get to wear my skirts!
   Now, final packing for my morning flight to the holy city of Varanassi.