Varanassi, India

   City stats I learned today: one of the 3 oldest cities on the planet, situated between three rivers, currently has over 3 million people, tallest building I've seen is 3 stories (there are some taller ones- hotels- in outskirts near airport), about 7,000 visitors a day come here.  This includes pilgrims coming to the holy Ganges and tourists. 
    If you have read my jottings on Delhi and the traffic patterns or the congestion in the streets - I retract it all! !   This city makes Delhi look calm and peaceful.   I think I am glad I came.  I know for sure I will be happy to leave.   Maybe I will be blessed and the experience will be only a vague image as in a dream.  One that seems familiar and at the same time haunting as if all covered in gauzy focus.
    Mind you, I have had no bad experience here.  Quite the contrary, by hotel on the banks of the Holy Ganga is beautifully appointed and the staff is attentive.  My arrival was greeted with a fresh necklace of flowers.  These garlands are the same used as offerings to the gods in the temples.  My guide and driver are both gentlemen and very knowledgeable and skilled.   Singh speaks Japanese as well as Hindi and English.  So tomorrw I will have a new guide for my dawn trip on the River.  The driver has the most revered status, as I am sure any tourist would agree! !   He is akin to a highly skilled sportsman, aka the finest hockey or soccer player combined with that of a jockey!
   
    Dream with me for a brief minute and close your eyes.  Imagine you are sitting in a small bubble , it has a seat like a car seat, and windows too.  The control is another matter.  Now imagine around you a scene , similar to a street scene, of figures moving about on either side in haphazzard patterns, some flowing in the same direction you are headed and some in the opposite.  Add to this image multitudes of men, men women & children, on motorcycles, add a few hundred bicyclists, another hundred or so 3-wheeled covered 'bumper cars' of passengers(brightly colored) a couple dozen or so rickshaws, the same number of men pulling flat topped wagons loaded with vegetahbles or sacks of grain, at least 25 cows,  and 3 busses!   Include in your image the sound of tinny horns calling beep-beep or beep = beeeeep, in a great caucaphony and the voices calling out sounds you cannot decipher.  The scene includes   a mist of heat dust potholes and hot winds.  Now the driver takes his charge of conveying you safely through this river of  rapid and constantly changing action.  His reflexes must be sharp and quick, he is able to see like an owl on 3 sides at once, , his vehicle is responsive and he is in constant control of the speed and direction so as not to even graze those objects which seem to flow miraculously around you and your little bubble with only an inch or less to spare!!!

   For my sport and adrenalin loving friends, dream on to yur heart's delight!!  Imagine yourself the skilled driver and enjoy!  For the rest of you, gently awaken yourself.  Indulge your spirit with a small cup of masala tea.  It calms your soul and enlivens your inside bringing you back to a space familiar and sure.  Or perhaps a piece of exquisite chocolate would do.  That is something I do not have access to here.

Namaste!

Colonel's Retreat

   That is the name of the hotel where I am staying, although it is more like a B & B.  However, it certainly is a retreat!   Quiet, calm & welcoming hospitality after the hectic city.  They say that Delhi traffic is  to be experienced.  I would say it is something to be lived through - hopefully!   Everyone uses their horn, "beep, beep" almost constantly.  Actually, they use their horn when they are close to another vehicle (including rickshaw, bicycle, motorcycle, horse & wasgon) or pedistrian.  When I say close, I mean within about 3 inches! Mind you, driving is done British style; driver on the right side of the car & direction of movement to the left - more or less.  India should stop painting lines for lanes on the streets.  In most areas there are 3 designated lanes and at least 5 abreast of vehicles.  I say in most cases, since during heavy traffic the center of the roadway either expands or contracts to accomodate the flow.  And flow it does!!!  My analogy would be water over rapids - just think moving objects in a stream around obstacles - exciting!   It actually has to be experienced - there is no other way to get a feel for it!!
   Today after my tour of the Red Fort on foot & the Old Delhi Market by rickshaw, I was more than happy to become engrosed in learning the art of northern Indian cooking.  My teacher was Ryoti. Her business is called Gourmet Desire.   She offers cooking demonstration/lessons, spice & herb buying trips and also market shopping excursions.  We prepared everything from the soup course through dessert!  All was extremely aromatic & flavorful although not spicy hot.  I also learned to make paneer, the traditional cheese!
   Last on my must do list for the day was shopping for a kurta.  This is a traditional garment worn by Indian women.  It is a 'blouse' that comes just above the knees with slits up each side to just about the hip.  Mine is sleeveless and cotton with some simple aplique and embroidery along the bodice.  Color is a light turquoise.  Yesterday on my city excursions, I was clearly dressed like a sore thumb wearing my knee length flared skirt, bare legs, sandals, and short sleeved blouse.  I expected to see women in sari's in the streets, markets and metro.  But, even the women who are not local had on long pants or in rare cases a skirt, and all items very drapey & flowing - that is to try to stay cool!  I am sure I will still look like a tourist, but at least won't get so many stares from people. 

Here I am in my kurta - very comfortable indeed!

Thank goodness I brought some lightweight, wide leg pants (thanks to my friend Pat C) and my thai silk pants (thanks to my friend Lori).  Along with my wide-leg white linen crop pants, this will be my wardrobe for the next week.  Hopefully, in Bali, I will get to wear my skirts!
   Now, final packing for my morning flight to the holy city of Varanassi.

India Day One

   Had my first Indian meal on Turkish air flying here from Istanbul.  Great saffron rice and  lentils!  I was relieved to see a gentleman holding a sign with my name on it after I exited immigration at the Delhi airport!   Thank goodness I've been in some of the back streets of Puerto Vallarta.  Otherwise my 4 am arrival at my B & B hotel would have been extremely terrifying!  The driver took me down 2 narrow dusty roads near the expressway.  We passed numerous 3 or 4 story buildings in various stages of construction - they looked like they had been under construction for months, or some maybe sitting unfinished for months.  Along the side of one street were large tubes for installing sewers.  After turning around and asking directions 2 times we finally arrived at my lodging.  It is called Colonel's Retreat and quite lovely once you are inside.  It has marble floors, 3 stories tall and comfortable.   Each floor is arranged with a family room sitting area and dining table in the center surrounded by groups of about 4 rooms.  Breakfast is included.  Really any meal you wish can be had.  After arriving today I unpacked a little and set my alarm for 9:30 and went to sleep.  I vaguely remember turning off the alarm.  I woke about 1 pm ! !    Just as I was getting dressed after my shower, someone knocked on my door.  It was time to register.  The woman who cares for everyone's needs is Teesta.  She knows everything you would need to know about the city and surrounding country.  She gave me a breakfast of rice, lentil dal, potatoe & pea curry with yogurt and a small plate of sliced tomato, cucumber and onion.    I spent the late afternoon and evening at a state sponsored artisan market.  Too many options and vendors to even begin to select something.  I was overwhelmed.  Plus they are very charming in their bids to offer you the finest quality and best price.   Teesta assured me that walking from Colonel's retreat to the metra & back was safe, which it is.  Coming back after dark was a challenge for my sense of direction but luckily nearly every building in the area has a security guard.  Helps to add to the mood of safety and for asking directions.
   Now, I'm going to look for Teesta to see if they have any ice cream and then go to bed.  Tomorrow I have a tour of the Old City and a cooking class in the afternoon.   After dinner it is packing and getting ready for a morning flight to Veranassi.     I'm hoping it will be easy to find internet there!

Ciao! Italy

   Just said goodbye to my new friends Brierly and Debra who are headed home to Houston.  We had an amazing dinner last night at one of those little out of the way, hole in the wall, places that you won't forget.  The 2 waiters-owners sang along with the blazing music in Italian,  the menu was handwritten and created daily - only traditional dishes.  We knew the food would be good as there were two properly dressed white-haired women enjoying themselves and oblivious to the loud music.  You'll have to wait for the pictures!
   Today I took it easy to rest up for a big day of travel tomorrow.  I fly to Istanbul at noon and then on to Delhi where I arrive at 4 am local time.   Don't ask how long the flight is - I haven't figured it out.  Have my book of vocabularly to study on the plane.   I was lucky here to find people who spoke English or understood my spanish!   Got my hair cut shorter again.  Went to the same woman who did it the day I arrived.  Great style, but still too much hair for the heat of India!

   NOTES TO BLOGGERS

Thanks for your posts!  They are all cherished.

 Cathy - great to hear from you!  I did a very similar walk as our tour began in Navona square and ended at the Trevi & the cooking class.

  Louise   - I will send a card, thanks for your address!

Justin -  I've 2 days when I arrive in Delhi to find my way around & see some sights.  I'm staying at the Colonel's Retreat.  Want to send me a map?  or transport info?  or where the nearest ATM, tourist office is?

  Barb, Theresa, Maggie,   Thanks for all you've sent and for keeping Mom & Dad in the loop!!

Mom & Dad, love to you!!!

  Amanda,  Your encouragement is so appreciated!!   Thanks for your notes.  Tell Holly I went to Momix!

   

Pasta & People

    People really do eat big plates of it here.  All the time it seems!  I had a wonderful dinner last night of vegetable soup, salad and chicken.  I am shocked.  Pasta is one of my favorite foods and I just had to have some 'real' food!    Today, on the other hand,  we made pasta in my cooking class: two kinds!   Then we ate it!  There were 3 other women: a mother and daughter from Minneapolis (Anne & Nadine) and Eileen from Boston.  We shared our own imperfections in the cooking process.  Oh, no I put a hole in it - how carless of me!  You mean I cut it too thin?  Here you do it!   We each had a shortcoming.  As you would with a child we each confirmed, oh, size is not important it all will taste perfect or it's ok, the more holes the better!  And in the end when we shared the finished product and the bottle of wine, it all was perfect.  We found we had much in common on many levels and parted looking forward to being in contact again.  For me, I am listening more to my inner conversations!  Tonight I plan to have dinner with a woman & daughter, who reminds me of my sister, Maggie & niece Becca!  Can't wait!  Wonder if I will order pasta.....hmmmmmm!
   

Rome - Day 2

    I am not feeling creative only tired but satisfied.   Today I took charge of my travels in Rome.   That is at least after breakfast and a long pep talk to self in my room and more perusing of the things to do (and how to get there).  Yesterday I only dared to venture within about a 4 or 5 block radius.  I did go into the train station and found the tourist office.  They only offered a $5.00 map of Rome.   I had planned to take a bus to the Teatro Olympio & back so I could find my way there today.   So I went back to the hotel and asked where I could get a haircut.  The sent me around the corner to a little shop.  The woman there is a real artist.  When she works on you, her whole attention is to you & your hair.  No conversation like is typical in the US.  People don't go to her for counseling or the latest gossip.  They go to her for a transformation!  And that is what I got.  I will find someone to take my picture tomorrow.   She did the best job of understanding my hair, my self and my feelings of anywhere I have been.  And this was all with only a little communication by me conversing in broken Spanish with her assisstant.
    As for today, I did make it to the Bourghesee Museo de Arte Moderna via the subway & a little walking.  Talked with alot of people both locals & tourists asking directions.  Was pointed through a huge portico and got to see the final lap of the Rome marathon.   The runners passing had been running for 4 hours already and were tired and determined.  The Marathon had been on my wish list so once again, the universe provided.
The highlight  of the museum was itàs outdoor patio and lunch.  Carpaccio  of  shredded beef, rocket, and shaved parmesan.  Couldn't be more cosmopolitan.   I left there and made my way to the Teatro Olympio for a 5 pm performance of MOMIX.   Look in them up on the internet.   The most beautiful & amazing correography of modern dance with amazing lighting, photo images and music.   I wish they would come to Chicago.  
    Well, I'm off to bed now so I can be up & have my breakfast before being picked up for my tour of Orvieto & Assisi at 7:10 am. 
    Until the next entry----think spring!

Postcards

    My mother wants me to send her some postcards.  My mother knows me quite well, as she has for some time!   She knows I am not a writer, have never been a writer, and perhaps she is okay with that.
    My mother does not use the internet - she writes!
    One of the things I love most about her are her cards and notes.  For every occasion, or even when there is no occasion, she will drop in the mail a card and some clippings she has gathered especially for those she loves and thinks about often.  As I get older, I treasure these shared treats more than ever.  There are 2 recent ones that will be traveling with me. 
    I am sure as a writer, having a non-writing daughter has been trying.  Mom has never given up hope that she will get notes, cards or letters from me.  To help increase the odds of her receiving a few postcards from me during my trip, she has thoughtfully sent me ten dollars so I will be compelled to purchase stamps and cards, in the hope she will actually get a postcard in the mail from me. 
    I am envisioning myself picking up postcards all along my route, as the pictures are always better than I could take.  I am also anticipating actually writing and mailing most of them!   And since I plan to write Mom - and oh, will she be pleased & surprised - I might as well send one to a few other people as well!
   My sister, Barbara, made a wonderful suggestion:  why don't I print out a sheet of address labels for all the family & friends I want to send a card to and take it with me.  Wonderful idea, Barb!  Barbara is organized.  She is the most organized of the family, we all officially agree, she made her own wedding dress.  That is organized!  She also is great at time management (and I suspect does not struggle with procrastination)!   I am none of those things.  
   So, if you would like a postcard, please increase the odds of receiving one from me by sending your address to the blog!  
   Good night!   Please don't dare to suggest I could have typed the address list in the time I took to write this - you would probably be correct!    However,  it would have taken me about three hours to find all your addresses in the 'to do' pile on my desk.
   Cross your fingers!

   

Packing & Choosing

   I've made the decision what clothes I'll take to Italy and what clothes I'll take for the 95 degree weather in India & Bali!  Yeah!  They are even all neatly in my suitcase.   I've vowed to only take one!   Problem is, I've yet to squeeze in my toiletries, sunglasses, books and my new sun hat.   Wish me luck!   If I knew how to upload a picture from my new camera, I'd include a pix......

My journey begins in 4 days!!!